New research from RMIT University suggests that environmental awareness alone may not be enough to stop consumers from buying ultra-fast fashion, as affordability and convenience can outweigh sustainability concerns. The findings highlight the complex decision-making behind purchases that may appear impulsive.
The study, published in the Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, comes amid rapid growth in online fast-fashion shopping in Australia. A Roy Morgan survey found that Temu and Shein gained a combined 1.5 million Australian customers last year. In the year to June 2025, 4.7 million Australians bought from Temu and 2.6 million from Shein.
RMIT study co-author Associate Professor Carol Tan said ultra-fast-fashion shopping was not necessarily thoughtless or impulsive. Participants often weighed environmental concerns against price and convenience, using budgets and careful planning to make their purchases feel more acceptable. Some built wish lists, left products in their online carts and waited for discounts or payday before buying.
The researchers identified two psychological patterns behind this behaviour: “strategic spontaneity” and “cognitive buffering”. Strategic spontaneity describes how shoppers plan for purchases while still experiencing the final decision as spontaneous. As one participant explained: “I add things to my cart and wait for payday or a discount notification.”
Social media also played an important role in encouraging purchases by exposing consumers to trends and making it easy to move quickly from discovering an item to buying it. Participants described seeing fashion content on platforms such as TikTok and soon adding similar products to their carts. Their clicks, searches and saved items could also shape subsequent recommendations and promotions, keeping them engaged with shopping platforms.
Study co-author Associate Professor Saniyat Islam said many participants were aware of ultra-fast fashion’s environmental impact, but that knowledge did not necessarily change their behaviour. Instead, some developed personal rules, budgets or spending limits that allowed them to feel more comfortable about making purchases despite their concerns.
The researchers described this process as “cognitive buffering”. One participant explained the conflict directly: “I know it’s bad for the planet, but when I’m on a budget and need an outfit for Saturday, I just block that out.” Tan said the findings suggest that simply providing more information about the environmental consequences of ultra-fast fashion may therefore have limited influence on shopping behaviour.
The researchers said sustainability messages may be more effective when they address consumers’ immediate priorities, particularly affordability and value for money. Showing a garment’s cost per wear, for example, could help shoppers compare the long-term value of durable clothing with cheaper garments worn only a few times. The study was based on interviews with 20 Australian millennials. It was designed to provide detailed insight into purchasing decisions rather than determine how widespread these behaviours are across the Australian population.
More information: Finela Quiambao et al, Strategic spontaneity and cognitive buffering in ultra-fast fashion consumption: Extending the S-O-R framework through Dual-process theory, Journal of Global Fashion Marketing. DOI: 10.1080/20932685.2026.2715111
Journal information: Journal of Global Fashion Marketing Provided by RMIT University